Do you ever get tired? When you give it your all day after day, and reach a point where the world seems to be turning towards a darker way…that from an exhausted perception appears to be targeted against humanity? So you try harder and harder to shine some light into that world, and find you are exhausted?
This very cycle is one of the reasons we’ve been given the gift of surfing.
These are the times when you wanna be aware that the re-charging station doesn’t require cobalt batteries or anything artificial, synthetic or toxic to rejuvenate;
the grind is telling you that you need a good long surf. Waves to cleanse the dirt away; ions and saltwater, and a beating heart, laughs, and near-misses, and off-road exploring down overgrown road’s, and soaking up vitamin D and adrenaline and tacos and smoothies and fuel from non-Monsanto local ranchers. Clean burning, natural fun with compadres that know how to keep it positive…yes, that’s a very good way to recharge the batteries.
Recently I did just that with a crew that sprung together last minute. Pete and Kepa and Ricky and locals Lucano and Matias.
We brought a stack of new prototype boards which included:
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a 5’11" x 19 3/4" x 2 5/8" 33.5L #Zipstitchsurfboard v.2,
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a 6’1" x 19 1/2" x 2 11/16" 33L #Supernaturalsurfboard v.2,
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a 5’11" x 19 3/4" x 2 11/16" 33.3L#Velocimonsta2030 with narrower tail template and increased tail rocker through the back third,
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a 5’7" x 18 5/8" x 2 1/4" 25L Asymetric design,
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as well as fin sets of the new made in the USA fiberglass XL powerbroker template.
At the start it seemed the powers that be were against this adventure as we had flight after flight canceled, we left the airport, we returned multiple times, and one point we slept overnight on the ground in Tijuana encircled in our boardbags with our backpacks strapped to our arms. But then miraculously this Truman Show experience shifted course and fate flipped towards an overwhelming flow that guided the weary band
as if we had engaged a river flowing on a frequency of fun and adventure you truly couldn’t script. The boards went insane, the fins went incredible. But the friendships and memories made will be unforgettable. And the batteries have been recharged :)
